Every person has their own slightly different way of modding switches but you’re on my website so this is mine. There’s nothing to say that you have to use any or all of these methods though I’ve lubed an unspeakable number of switches with these methods and have only had good results so I think there’s a fair amount of reliability to the steps detailed below.


Before you can do anything to your switches, you have to first get them open. there’s a couple of ways to go about this with the easiest being to use a switch opener. If you forgot to order an opener though and you don’t want to wait for one to arrive, a small flat-head screwdriver will suffice, though this will take much longer and increase the risk of damage to the casing legs.

To use an opener, simply align the legs on the top casing with the ins on the opener and the flat side with the wider face on the opener before pressing down evenly straight down until the legs unclip from the bottom casing. Then just remove the top from the bottom and you’ve got your switch open.

To use a screwdriver the same idea applies only instead of unclipping all 4 legs at once, you need to do it one by one. Wedge the screwdriver under each leg and press up and out, just enough to unclip it and no more. repeat this on all legs and the top should pop off just like it would with an opener.

Bottom casing

With your switch dismantled it’s time to start the modifications. always start with the bottom casing as it gives you a base to rebuild your switches as you go which saves time in the long run. To get a good coating of lubricant and for the best results, I like to apply a thin layer of Kryotox 205g0 to the Stem extrusions, before running the brush around the spring extrusion to bring the bristles together again. I then ad another very small amount of 205g0 to the tip of my brush and run it around the inside of the spring extrusion to help keep the stem bottom out smooth. Finally, put your casing to one side and move on to the next.

Spring & Stem

There are a couple of ways to go about applying lube to springs, the easiest and fastest way is to use a thin lubricant or oil and a bag though you can use a brush and something thicker like 205g0 if you don’t want to purchase the additional supplies.

To bag lube, simply place all your springs into a bag with a few drops of your oil, (i use GPL 105) then seal the bag and shake for as long as you like. the longer you shake, the better the coverage though after a couple of minutes they should have a decent layer around them. Finally, remove them from the bag and mount them to the bottom casing.

For brush lubing simply apply some of your lubricant to the brush and spin I around the length of the spring making sure to cover it all.

For the stem, use a brush to cover all 4 sides (If the switches are tactile, try not to get lubricant on the stem legs.) I use 205g0 for this step as well. After you have coated the 4 flat faces, I also like to apply a small amount of lubricant to the inside of the stem where it touches the spring just for a slightly smoother compression, to do this just twist the brush around the extrusion in the centre

Top Casing

There are 4 parts of the top casing that I apply lube to, the 2 straight channels and the 2 stem channels. Using vertical brush strokes for the best end result apply a think coating to each face, there should be enough for it to be visible if a light is shone on it but not so much that it will impair the movement of the stem in the casings. repeat this for all the top casings and when each is finished, place it on top of the bottom casing, spring and stem.


Filming isn’t an essential step and is really just down to personal preference, however, the purpose of fitting the thin piece of plastic between the 2 halves of the casing is to remove wobble between the 2 and help the switch sound and feel more crips for the user. In order to film a switch you will, of course, need films but as long as you’re lubing at the same time you should have everything else you may need already. With the switch in its separate parts, align the side of the film with the smaller rectangle with the LED side of the switch. The wider side will go on the contact side. If this description isn’t clear enough then please refer to the image attached beside. With the film in the correct orientation, you can now press it flat against the casing. I prefer to mount mine on the top casings though it makes little to no difference what half you choose. With the film flush, all you need to do is reassemble which will be covered in the next step.


The final step has arrived! Now that all your parts are sufficiently lubricated to give you that silky smooth actuation, all that’s left to do is to get them back together. To make sure that you get it right and don’t risk damaging the leaf in the casing before you press everything back together make sure to double-check that everything is in the correct orientation with the stem side with the legs pointing towards the copper leaf and the high side of the top casing also pointing the same way. Once you’re certain that all the parts are facing the right way, simply provide consistent pressure from above until you hear all of the legs clip back into the bottom casing. After the click just gives the switch a quick look over to ensure that nothing looks incorrect, and that’s you finished!